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Clothing & Apparel History

India has a rich culture and tradition which is reflected in the clothing as well. Indian fashion has seen a metamorphosis since the ancient days. Although, the basics of Indian clothing are the same, we can find a lot of western influences and modern designs that have been incorporated into the basic structure of any Indian outfit. So, what was ancient Indian fashion actually like? It was the time when there were no designers displaying their haute couture to pamper a luxurious line of clientele. Ancient India had its own kind of customs and traditions that were to be followed by generations and we can see its presence felt even today. Need to know some facts about ancient Indian fashion and clothing? Read on to know more about the glorious days in ancient India.

Women's Traditional Clothing

The Sari : The age old Sari has kept its popularity throughout the centuries because of its total simplicity and practical comfort, combined with the sense of luxury and sense of sexuality a woman experiences. For a single length of material, the sari is the most versatile garment in existence.  A sari is a rectangular piece of cloth which is five to six yards in length. The style, color and texture of this cloth varies and it might be made from cotton, silk or one of the several man-made materials. The sari has an ageless charm since it is not cut or tailored for a particular size.

This supremely graceful traditional dress can also be worn in several ways : Maharashtrian : Navvari, Gujarati style, Bengali style, Kerala style, Irula style, Pinkosa (farmer) style, etc.

Gujarati way : This version of draping, commonly known as the seedha pallu way, is also found in parts of Uttar Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh, Rajasthan and Bihar. Instead of opening to the left, the pleats are tucked so that they open to the right. Then, the pallu is taken to the back and brought over the right shoulder. It is then spread across the chest, and the left edge is tucked in the petticoat at the back.

Maharashtra method : Instead of the usual five-and-a-half meters, the sari in this version measures eight meters. One portion of the sari is drawn up between the legs and tucked in behind at the waist, while another portion is draped as a pallu over the bosom. Thus it forms a kind of divided sari, allowing greater freedom of movement.

Tamilian version : Like the Maharashtra version, the sare in this version, too, measures eight meters. After wrapping around the waist, the pleats are positioned along the left leg. The rest of the sari is taken over the left shoulder, wrapped once again round the waist and tucked on the left side.

Bengali style : The sari is worn pleatless; it is wrapped around the waist, brought back to the right side and the pallu is thrown over the left shoulder. The pallu is then brought up under the right arm and once again cast over the left shoulder.

The Choli : It is the tightly fitted, short blouse that ends just below the bust worn under a sari. It is either long sleeved, short sleeved or sleeveless. The choli evolved as a form of clothing in 10th century AD and the first cholis were only front covering; the back was always bare. Blouses of this type are still common in the state of Rajasthan. Today, there are numerous styles of cholis inspired by the booming Indian fashion industry.

The Salwar Kameej : Another popular attire of women in India is the salwar-kameez. This dress evolved as a comfortable and respectable garment for women in Kashmir and Punjab, but is now immensely popular in all regions of India. Salwars are pyjama-like trousers drawn tightly in at the waist and the ankles. Over the salwars, women wear a long and loose dress known as a kameez. One might occasionally come across women wearing a churidar instead of a salwar. A churidar is similar to the salwar but is tighter fitting at the hips, thighs and ankles more like leggings. Over this, one might wear a collarless or mandarin-collar dress called a kurta.

The Lehanga : Apart from the choli, women in Rajasthan wear a form of pleated skirt known as the ghagra or lehanga. This skirt is secured at the waist and leaves the back and midriff bare. The heads are however covered by a length of fine cotton known as "odhni" or "dupatta".

Men's Traditional Clothing

Though the majority of Indian women wear traditional costumes, the men in India can be found in more conventional western clothing. Shirts and trousers are worn by men from all regions in India. However, men in villages are still more comfortable in traditional attire. The men wear Sherwani, Lungi, Dhoti and Kurta- Pajama.

The Sherwani : a coat like garment, worn by men, fitted close to the body, of knee-length or longer and opening in front with button-fastenings. Below the men wear a garment for the lower part of the body, baggy and wide at the top tied with a string at the waist , and tight around the legs and ankles. It is avery elegant dress for the men and mostly worn during ceremonies.

The Lungi : The traditional lungi originated in the south and today it is worn by men and women alike. It is simply a short length of material worn around the thighs rather like a sarong.

The Dhoti : A dhoti is a longer lungi but with an additional length of material pulled up between the legs.

The Kurta-Pyjama : The Kurta or the top is a knee length colarless shirt which is adorned inmostly white or pastel colors. But today you will find Kurtas made out of the most wonderful and colorful of fabrics. Pyjama-are like loose trousers with a string tie at the waist. Traditionally white in color